Etnodim х The Ivan Honchar Museum National Centre of Folk Culture
Family. Malyn, Zhytomyr region, 1912. Ivan Honchar's art historical and ethnographic album "Ukraine and Ukrainians"
Celebrating the 100th anniversary of Taras Shevchenko's birth. Konotop, Sumy region, 1914. Ivan Honchar's art historical and ethnographic album "Ukraine and Ukrainians"
A rural community. The Lypianka village, Cherkasy region, 1914. Ivan Honchar's art historical and ethnographic album "Ukraine and Ukrainians"
In addition to the collections of clothing and interior fabrics, the Ivan Honchar Museum also has a large collection of embroidery fragments.
A significant part of this collection contains fragments collected by Ivan Honchar. Over the years, the collection has been replenished with expedition finds and gifts from museum supporters.
Thus, today the collection includes about 700 embroidery and weaving fragments of shirts, towels, and particular techniques samples.
Outskirts of the regions of Ukraine
18th - 20th centuries
18th - 20th centuries
We present a new collection of embroidered shirts and embroidered dresses created on the basis of embroidery fragments that are kept in the Honchar Museum and cannot be restored.
#1 / Opishnya Shirt
Garment description:
Straight silhouette women's shirt.
It has long raglan sleeves.
The bottom of the sleeve is
gathered at the cuffs.
Central slit with one button
fastener.
Round neckline.
It has long raglan sleeves.
The bottom of the sleeve is
gathered at the cuffs.
Central slit with one button
fastener.
Round neckline.
#1 / Opishnya Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
City of Poltava, Middle Naddniprianshchyna ethnographic region. Poltava region.
Fragment of an embroidered shirt
Fragment of an embroidered shirt
Number
KN-309
Time
18 c.
Size, cm
60 х 30;
51 х 31;
51 х 31;
Description of the fragment
Homespun cloth, embroidery thread; towel stitches: satin stitch, artistic satin stitch, straight stitch, staple stitch, retiaz stitch, and buttonhole stitch.
Ancient floral ornaments are characterised by stylisation.
A large number of such ornaments can be seen on the edges of The selected sample belongs to the group of the oldest exhibits in the museum collection.
The archaic nature is also emphasised by the red colour of the threads and the ancient towel stitching.
Ancient floral ornaments are characterised by stylisation.
A large number of such ornaments can be seen on the edges of The selected sample belongs to the group of the oldest exhibits in the museum collection.
The archaic nature is also emphasised by the red colour of the threads and the ancient towel stitching.
#2 / Kharkivska Shirt
Garment description:
Women's shirt with raglan sleeves
with a slit in the centre of the
hem, tied with tasselled cords.
The sleeve is made of two parts.
The lower part of the sleeve is
gathered with an elastic band.
Satin stitch embroidery, cotton
thread.
with a slit in the centre of the
hem, tied with tasselled cords.
The sleeve is made of two parts.
The lower part of the sleeve is
gathered with an elastic band.
Satin stitch embroidery, cotton
thread.
#2 / Kharkivska shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Kharkiv oblast, Izyum region, Balakliyska AH, Yakovenkove village, Slobozhanshchyna ethnographic region.
Fragment of a women's shirt - sleeve
Fragment of a women's shirt - sleeve
Number
NDF-4854
Time
Begin.
of the
20th c.
of the
20th c.
Size, cm
40 х 80;
Description of the fragment
Homespun linen, ‘white on white’, or ‘bil’ emoroidery, zapoloch; flooring, puckering, interlacing.
Geometric ornaments embroidered with bil technique are the oldest and most widespread in all regions of Ukraine.
The main elements of this sample are a diamond with horns and a running stitch motif embroidered with a flooring and coloured interlacing, which is typical for Slobozhansk shirts.
Geometric ornaments embroidered with bil technique are the oldest and most widespread in all regions of Ukraine.
The main elements of this sample are a diamond with horns and a running stitch motif embroidered with a flooring and coloured interlacing, which is typical for Slobozhansk shirts.
#3 / Berezhany Shirt
Garment description:
Straight silhouette women's shirt.
It has long raglan sleeves.
The bottom of the sleeve is
gathered at the cuffs.
Central slit with one button fastener. Stand collar.
It has long raglan sleeves.
The bottom of the sleeve is
gathered at the cuffs.
Central slit with one button fastener. Stand collar.
#3 / Berezhany Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Ternopil region, Ternopil district, Berezhanska AH, Verbiv village, Opillya ethnographic region.
Embroidery fragment
Embroidery fragment
Number
KN-7963
Time
1st half
of the
20th c.
of the
20th c.
Size, cm
21 х 8;
Description of the fragment
Cloth, Mouliné; cross stitch.
Geometric cross-stitch ornaments are widespread in all regions of Ukraine, but the colour scheme and ornament lightness of the chosen fragment are characteristic of Opillia.
The main element of the ornament is a rhombus with horns.
Geometric cross-stitch ornaments are widespread in all regions of Ukraine, but the colour scheme and ornament lightness of the chosen fragment are characteristic of Opillia.
The main element of the ornament is a rhombus with horns.
#4 / Rivne Shirt
Garment description:
Loose fit women's shirt,
with wide sleeves gathered with an
elastic band at the bottom.
The collar is flat and turned down,
with decorative tassels.
The back has a yoke.
Satin stitch embroidery, cotton
thread.
with wide sleeves gathered with an
elastic band at the bottom.
The collar is flat and turned down,
with decorative tassels.
The back has a yoke.
Satin stitch embroidery, cotton
thread.
#4 / Rivne Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Rivne region, Varash district, Volodymyrets ATC, Romeyky village, Polissia ethnographic region.
Fragment of a women's shirt - collar
Fragment of a women's shirt - collar
Number
NDF-2449
Time
Early
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
10 х 33;
Description of the fragment
Homespun linen, zapoloch; satin stitch, backsittch, staple stitch, buttonhole stitch.
A geometric ornament, the main elements of which are diamond and diamond with rays, typical of Polissya. Older ornaments were made in the process of weaving or by embroidery techniques that imitate weaving - undercasting and darning.
These ornaments were used to decorate shirts, aprons and the oldest headcovering - ‘namitka’. The colour scheme of Polissia is based on red with contrasting stripes or a slight interspersion of other colours.
A geometric ornament, the main elements of which are diamond and diamond with rays, typical of Polissya. Older ornaments were made in the process of weaving or by embroidery techniques that imitate weaving - undercasting and darning.
These ornaments were used to decorate shirts, aprons and the oldest headcovering - ‘namitka’. The colour scheme of Polissia is based on red with contrasting stripes or a slight interspersion of other colours.
Photo
Region
Rivne region, Sarny district, Velyke Verbche village, Polissia ethnographic region.
Fragment of a women's shirt - 'ustavka'
Fragment of a women's shirt - 'ustavka'
Number
NDF-3
Time
1st half
of the
20th c.
of the
20th c.
Size, cm
19 х 3;
Description of the fragment
Cloth, Mouliné; darning, cross stitch.
A geometric ornament, the main elements of which are a diamond and a diamond with rays, typical of Polissya.
A geometric ornament, the main elements of which are a diamond and a diamond with rays, typical of Polissya.
#5 / Poltavska Shirt
Garment description:
Shirt with ties on the back and
puffy wide sleeves gathered at the
cuffs.
Assembly at the neck, small slits
on the sides.
Embroidery is located around the
perimeter of the sleeves and on the
front of the shirt.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
puffy wide sleeves gathered at the
cuffs.
Assembly at the neck, small slits
on the sides.
Embroidery is located around the
perimeter of the sleeves and on the
front of the shirt.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
#5 / Poltavska Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Poltava region, Lubny district, Zasulia village, Middle Naddniprianshchyna ethnographic region.
Fragment of a women's shirt - sleeve
Fragment of a women's shirt - sleeve
Number
-
Time
20 с.
Size, cm
53,5 х 47;
Description of the fragment
Homespun linen, ‘white on white’, or ‘bil’ emoroidery, cut out embroidery, double-sided stitch
Especially rich are Poltava shirts embroidered white on white, where transparent and opaque seams are combined.
The wide sleeves were sewn up entirely with ornaments, but thanks to openwork techniques, cut out embroidery and lace, they were not overloaded.
The selected fragment shows a common ornament: a grid of diamonds, each of which has a tree inscribed in it.
The motif of the flower crowning the tree echoes star embroidered on the front stripes, creating a perfect and coherent composition.
Especially rich are Poltava shirts embroidered white on white, where transparent and opaque seams are combined.
The wide sleeves were sewn up entirely with ornaments, but thanks to openwork techniques, cut out embroidery and lace, they were not overloaded.
The selected fragment shows a common ornament: a grid of diamonds, each of which has a tree inscribed in it.
The motif of the flower crowning the tree echoes star embroidered on the front stripes, creating a perfect and coherent composition.
#6 / Galych Shirt
Garment description:
Women's shirt Halych
(Ivano-Frankivsk region)
Loose-fitting, with gatherings
around the neck, raglan sleeves
gathered at the cuffs, a slit in
the front, and tasselled ties.
Cut-off sides.
Decorated with satin stitch
embroidery, acrylic threads
(Ivano-Frankivsk region)
Loose-fitting, with gatherings
around the neck, raglan sleeves
gathered at the cuffs, a slit in
the front, and tasselled ties.
Cut-off sides.
Decorated with satin stitch
embroidery, acrylic threads
#6 / Galych Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Ivano-Frankivsk region, the town of Sniatyn, Pokuttya ethnographic region.
Fragment of a women's shirt - 'ustavka'.
Fragment of a women's shirt - 'ustavka'.
Number
KN-1976
Time
1st
half
of the
20th
c.
half
of the
20th
c.
Size, cm
13 х 21;
Description of the fragment
Homespun cloth, wool, Mouliné; nyz with coloured filling, chain stitch.
A multi-level geometric ornament embroidered in black using ancient nyz or chain nyz techniques forms a black outline.
In Pokuttya and Hutsul regions, each centre has its own unique colour scheme, creating a rich diversity of these ethnographic regions.
A multi-level geometric ornament embroidered in black using ancient nyz or chain nyz techniques forms a black outline.
In Pokuttya and Hutsul regions, each centre has its own unique colour scheme, creating a rich diversity of these ethnographic regions.
#7 / Zakarpatska Shirt
Garment description:
The black women's shirt is flared
to the bottom and has side
decorative reliefs on the front and
The round neckline is decorated
with embroidery.
The sleeves are gathered at the top
and bottom, the cuffs have a hidden
button.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
to the bottom and has side
decorative reliefs on the front and
The round neckline is decorated
with embroidery.
The sleeves are gathered at the top
and bottom, the cuffs have a hidden
button.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
#7 / Zakarpatska Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Zakarpattia region, Berehove district, Vynohradivska AH, Novoselytsia village.
Ethnographic region of Zakarpattia.
Fragment of a men's shirt - cuff.
Ethnographic region of Zakarpattia.
Fragment of a men's shirt - cuff.
Number
NDF-5490
Time
1st
half
of the
20th
c.
half
of the
20th
c.
Size, cm
3,5 х 18;
Description of the fragment
Bamboo, Mouliné; kachalochky stitch, backstitch, loop stitch, ruffling, crochet
The west of Ukraine is characterised by multi-coloured contrasting embroidery.
The embroidery technique on the selected fragment is kachalochky.
This type of counted satin stitch is also known in other regions of Ukraine, but in Transcarpathia, the peculiarity of this embroidery is the complete sewing of the background with dark colours.
The west of Ukraine is characterised by multi-coloured contrasting embroidery.
The embroidery technique on the selected fragment is kachalochky.
This type of counted satin stitch is also known in other regions of Ukraine, but in Transcarpathia, the peculiarity of this embroidery is the complete sewing of the background with dark colours.
#7 / Odeska Shirt 1
Garment description:
Women's voluminous blouse with a
V-neckline, stand-up collar with
decorative tassels.
Long voluminous sleeves are
gathered with an elastic band at
the bottom.
Fabric - dark grey linen
Threads - cotton
V-neckline, stand-up collar with
decorative tassels.
Long voluminous sleeves are
gathered with an elastic band at
the bottom.
Fabric - dark grey linen
Threads - cotton
#8 / Odeska Shirt 2
Garment description:
Women's voluminous blouse with a
wide turn-down collar, a slit with
tassels in front.
Long voluminous sleeves with an
elastic band at the bottom.
Fabric - navy linen
Threads - cotton
wide turn-down collar, a slit with
tassels in front.
Long voluminous sleeves with an
elastic band at the bottom.
Fabric - navy linen
Threads - cotton
#7 / #8 / Odeska Shirts / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Odesa region, Podilskyi district, Kodymska AH, Podillia ethnographic region.
Women's shirt with hemming
Women's shirt with hemming
Number
KN-15932
Time
Early
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
112 х 138 х 142;
Description of the fragment
Homespun hemp cloth, bamboo, zapoloch; flooring, kuryachy brid, chain stitch, surface stitch, shtapivka, mouse tooth edging
The Odesa region is characterised by a combination of geometric ornaments of different structures and techniques.
This was often further emphasised by contrasting colours.
The surface stitch embroidery technique gives the ornament elements a characteristic elongated shape. Restrained ornaments on such shirts could be complemented by multi-coloured crosses or beads.
The Odesa region is characterised by a combination of geometric ornaments of different structures and techniques.
This was often further emphasised by contrasting colours.
The surface stitch embroidery technique gives the ornament elements a characteristic elongated shape. Restrained ornaments on such shirts could be complemented by multi-coloured crosses or beads.
#9 / Yavir Blouse
Garment description:
Yavir Blouse
(Lviv region, Yavoriv district)
Straight silhouette shirt with
voluminous puffed sleeves.
The bottoms of the sleeves are
gathered on wide cuffs and fastened
with buttons.
The front placket is fastened with
buttons.
Wide flat collar.
Decorated with satin stitch
embroidery, cotton thread in the
style of Yavoriv embroidery.
(Lviv region, Yavoriv district)
Straight silhouette shirt with
voluminous puffed sleeves.
The bottoms of the sleeves are
gathered on wide cuffs and fastened
with buttons.
The front placket is fastened with
buttons.
Wide flat collar.
Decorated with satin stitch
embroidery, cotton thread in the
style of Yavoriv embroidery.
#10 / Yaryna Vest
Garment description:
Yaryna Vest
(Lviv region, Yavoriv district)
Decorative vest-cape, the front and
back are decorated with embroidery.
The edges of the product are
decorated with contrasting ribbon.
Tie ribbon ties on the sides of the
waist.
The ornament is in the style of
Yavoriv embroidery, which is
typical for the Yavoriv district of
Lviv region.
(Lviv region, Yavoriv district)
Decorative vest-cape, the front and
back are decorated with embroidery.
The edges of the product are
decorated with contrasting ribbon.
Tie ribbon ties on the sides of the
waist.
The ornament is in the style of
Yavoriv embroidery, which is
typical for the Yavoriv district of
Lviv region.
#11 / Yaryna Dress
Garment description:
Yaryna Dress
(Lviv region, Yavoriv district)
A long dress with voluminous
sleeves that gather on wide cuffs
and fasten with buttons.
The front and back are embroidered.
Decorated with satin stitch
embroidery and cotton thread.
The ornament is in the style of
Yavoriv embroidery, which is
typical for the Yavoriv district of
Lviv region.
(Lviv region, Yavoriv district)
A long dress with voluminous
sleeves that gather on wide cuffs
and fasten with buttons.
The front and back are embroidered.
Decorated with satin stitch
embroidery and cotton thread.
The ornament is in the style of
Yavoriv embroidery, which is
typical for the Yavoriv district of
Lviv region.
#9 / #10 / #11 / Yavoriv district / Information about the region
Photo
Region
Lviv region, Yavoriv district, Opillya ethnographic region
(Vyshenky, Shklo, Citation)
Women's festive shirt, camisole, headscarf.
(Vyshenky, Shklo, Citation)
Women's festive shirt, camisole, headscarf.
Number
-
Time
1st half
of the
20th c.
of the
20th c.
Size, cm
-
Description of the fragment
In the Yavoriv district, the geometric ornament of the 19th century was replaced by a stylised floral one in the early 20th century.
Its characteristic features are bright and embossed embroidery, different but balanced small motifs, with a lot of white space between them.
This is how shirts, headdresses, camisoles and aprons were decorated, creating a light but bright image.
Its characteristic features are bright and embossed embroidery, different but balanced small motifs, with a lot of white space between them.
This is how shirts, headdresses, camisoles and aprons were decorated, creating a light but bright image.
#12 / Malyn Dress
Garment description:
Long Malyn dress (Zhytomyr region).
Straight silhouette, with voluminous
puffed sleeves, the sleeves gather at
the cuffs at the bottom.
The front has a slit with tassels.
Dress with cut-off sides
and slits in the front.
Decorated with satin stitch embroidery
and acrylic threads.
Straight silhouette, with voluminous
puffed sleeves, the sleeves gather at
the cuffs at the bottom.
The front has a slit with tassels.
Dress with cut-off sides
and slits in the front.
Decorated with satin stitch embroidery
and acrylic threads.
#12 / Malyn Dress / Information about the fragments
Photo
Region
Zhytomyr region, Korosten disctric, Malynska AH, Chopovychi village, Polissia ethnographic region
Fragment of a women's shirt - hems
Fragment of a women's shirt - hems
Number
KN-7858
Time
Early
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
6 х 32;
Description of the fragment
Homespun linen, zapoloch; overcasting
These ornaments were used to decorate shirts, aprons and the oldest headcovering - ‘namitka’. The colour scheme of Polissia is based on red with contrasting stripes or a slight interspersion of other colours.
These ornaments were used to decorate shirts, aprons and the oldest headcovering - ‘namitka’. The colour scheme of Polissia is based on red with contrasting stripes or a slight interspersion of other colours.
Photo
Region
Zhytomyr region, Korosten region, Malynska AH, Chopovychi village, Polissia ethnographic region
Fragment of woven and embroidered fabric
Fragment of woven and embroidered fabric
Number
NDF-6573
Time
Late
19th c.
19th c.
Size, cm
31 х 15;
Description of the fragment
Homespun linen, zapoloch; darning
A geometric ornament, the main elements of which are diamond and diamond with rays, typical of Polissya. Older ornaments were made in the process of weaving or by embroidery techniques that imitate weaving - undercasting and darning.
A geometric ornament, the main elements of which are diamond and diamond with rays, typical of Polissya. Older ornaments were made in the process of weaving or by embroidery techniques that imitate weaving - undercasting and darning.
#13 / Lemky Dress
Garment description:
Short loose Lemkivshchyna Dress.
With reliefs on the front, up to
the waistline.
Back with decorative trim. Wide
sleeves are tightened with a cord
with tassels.
There are decorative openwork
elements on the bottom of the
sleeves, skirt and embossed seams.
With reliefs on the front, up to
the waistline.
Back with decorative trim. Wide
sleeves are tightened with a cord
with tassels.
There are decorative openwork
elements on the bottom of the
sleeves, skirt and embossed seams.
#13 / Lemky Dress / Information about the fragments
Photo
Region
Ethnographic region of Lemkivshchyna.
Embroidered fabric. fragment
Embroidered fabric. fragment
Number
NDF-6528
Time
Early
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
27 х 71;
Description of the fragment
Fine cotton fabric, zapoloch; satin stitch along the pattern contour, stem stitch
The delicate execution of floral ornaments on Lemko costumes shows the ancient colour scheme - a combination of red and blue.
Such embroidery was used to decorate a shirt and waist garments, such as skirts and aprons.
The delicate execution of floral ornaments on Lemko costumes shows the ancient colour scheme - a combination of red and blue.
Such embroidery was used to decorate a shirt and waist garments, such as skirts and aprons.
#14 / Vinnytska Dress
Garment description:
A long dress of semi-fitted
silhouette with raglan sleeves.
1-button placket in the centre. The
neck is trimmed with edging.
Long sleeves with 2 button cuffs on
the the bottom.
Assembly on the bottom of the
sleeve and skirt.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
silhouette with raglan sleeves.
1-button placket in the centre. The
neck is trimmed with edging.
Long sleeves with 2 button cuffs on
the the bottom.
Assembly on the bottom of the
sleeve and skirt.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
#14 / Vinnytska Dress / Information about the fragments
Photo
Region
Vinnytsia oblast, Tulchyn region, Tomashpilska AH, Hnatkiv village, Podillia ethnographic region
Fragment of a women's shirt - 'ustavka'.
Fragment of a women's shirt - 'ustavka'.
Number
KN-2017
Time
Late
19th c.
– Early
20th c.
19th c.
– Early
20th c.
Size, cm
21 х 7.5;
Description of the fragment
Cloth, Mouliné; flooring
The common shirt motifs are tree, wavy branches (‘lamane hil’tse’), running stitch.
An interesting stylisation of a tree in a geometric ornament on the 'ustavka' of the women's shirt.
A rich harmonious colour scheme appears on Podillia shirts in the early 20th century.
The common shirt motifs are tree, wavy branches (‘lamane hil’tse’), running stitch.
An interesting stylisation of a tree in a geometric ornament on the 'ustavka' of the women's shirt.
A rich harmonious colour scheme appears on Podillia shirts in the early 20th century.
#15 / Myrhorodska Dress
Garment description:
A long dress with wide sleeves
gathered at the cuffs.
The main part of the embroidery is
located on the sides of the dress
and on the sleeve.
The dress has a round neck with a
button fastener that is hidden
inside.
If necessary, the dress can be tied
with a belt or left straight and
wide.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
gathered at the cuffs.
The main part of the embroidery is
located on the sides of the dress
and on the sleeve.
The dress has a round neck with a
button fastener that is hidden
inside.
If necessary, the dress can be tied
with a belt or left straight and
wide.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
#15 / Myrhorodska Dress / Information about the fragments
Photo
Region
Poltava oblast, Myrhorod region, Velyki Sorochyntsi village, Middle Naddniprianshchyna ethnographic region.
Fragment of a men's shirt - dickey
Fragment of a men's shirt - dickey
Number
NDF-6526
Time
Early
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
28 х 16;
Description of the fragment
Homespun cloth, zapoloch; chain stitch.
The shirts embroidered with the chain technique are interesting; the ornaments on them are always floral, stylised and attract attention with their decorative effect.
The peculiarity of such embroidery is that it is done not with a needle, but with a hook, which defines the recognisable style.
The colour scheme could be different: from the most ancient red and black to a combination of different colours.
The shirts embroidered with the chain technique are interesting; the ornaments on them are always floral, stylised and attract attention with their decorative effect.
The peculiarity of such embroidery is that it is done not with a needle, but with a hook, which defines the recognisable style.
The colour scheme could be different: from the most ancient red and black to a combination of different colours.
#16 / Chernihivska Shirt
Garment description:
The textured embroidery of this
shirt reproduces the ornamentation
of the Chernihiv region, Nizhyn
district, in the first half of the
20th century.
The shirt is straight and
voluminous. The central placket has
hidden buttons.
The classic folding stand collar is
fastened with a wooden button.
Various machine embroidery
techniques were used to imitate
hand stitches.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
shirt reproduces the ornamentation
of the Chernihiv region, Nizhyn
district, in the first half of the
20th century.
The shirt is straight and
voluminous. The central placket has
hidden buttons.
The classic folding stand collar is
fastened with a wooden button.
Various machine embroidery
techniques were used to imitate
hand stitches.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
#16 / Chernihivska Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Chernihiv region, Nizhyn region, Middle Naddniprianshchyna ethnographic region. Chernihiv region
Fragment of a women's shirt - hem
Fragment of a women's shirt - hem
Number
NDF-130
Time
1st half
of the
20th c.
of the
20th c.
Size, cm
10 х 17;
Description of the fragment
Cloth, Mouliné; double-sided stitch, chain stitch, punch needle, mouse tooth edging, backstitch
The ornament is floral and geometric, wavy branches (‘lamane hil’tse’) motif.
In the folk tradition, shirts "embroidered with oak" were common - the embroidery thread was dyed in a decoction of oak bark.
An interesting technique is the punch needle one, known as "nightingale eyes", when it is used to make the entire element of the ornament.
The ornament is floral and geometric, wavy branches (‘lamane hil’tse’) motif.
In the folk tradition, shirts "embroidered with oak" were common - the embroidery thread was dyed in a decoction of oak bark.
An interesting technique is the punch needle one, known as "nightingale eyes", when it is used to make the entire element of the ornament.
#17 / Kyivska Shirt
Garment description:
The origin of the village's name is
connected with the Old Slavic word
"pii", meaning "those who know"
(perhaps this word is related to
the concept of "piitika" (poetics),
i.e. the skill of creation taught
by the famous Ukrainian philosopher
Hryhorii Skovoroda).
The shirt is straight, voluminous -
it will loosely fit the figure. The
slit in the centre of the dickey is
fastened with hidden buttons.
The shirt model has a stand-up
collar, double yoke on the back,
straight sleeves and small
decorative cuts on the bottom of
the side seams.
Fabric - white linen
Threads - black acrylic
connected with the Old Slavic word
"pii", meaning "those who know"
(perhaps this word is related to
the concept of "piitika" (poetics),
i.e. the skill of creation taught
by the famous Ukrainian philosopher
Hryhorii Skovoroda).
The shirt is straight, voluminous -
it will loosely fit the figure. The
slit in the centre of the dickey is
fastened with hidden buttons.
The shirt model has a stand-up
collar, double yoke on the back,
straight sleeves and small
decorative cuts on the bottom of
the side seams.
Fabric - white linen
Threads - black acrylic
#17 / Kyivska Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Kyiv region, Obukhiv district, Myronivska AH, Pyi village, Middle Naddniprianshchyna ethnographic region. Kyiv region
Fragment of a women's shirt - hem
Fragment of a women's shirt - hem
Number
NDF-430
Time
Early
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
44 х 47;
Description of the fragment
Homespun hemp cloth, zapoloch; double-sided stitch, surface stitch, bar stitch
The chosen fragment has an archaic geometric ornament based on a diamond shape, made using a combination of surface stitch and double-sided stitch techniques.
Black embroidery on a white canvas is still in vogue.
The chosen fragment has an archaic geometric ornament based on a diamond shape, made using a combination of surface stitch and double-sided stitch techniques.
Black embroidery on a white canvas is still in vogue.
#18 / Veremiy Shirt
Garment description:
The embroidery is inspired by the
shirt from the Vinnytsia region,
Tomashivka district, Hnatkiv
village.
The piece was made in the late 19th
- early 20th centuries.
Loose silhouette men's shirt with
long sleeves.
It has a turned down stand collar.
Yoke on the back.
The sleeves are gathered at the
cuffs.
There is a gathering on the
shoulder seams of the hem. A one-
button fastener in the centre.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
shirt from the Vinnytsia region,
Tomashivka district, Hnatkiv
village.
The piece was made in the late 19th
- early 20th centuries.
Loose silhouette men's shirt with
long sleeves.
It has a turned down stand collar.
Yoke on the back.
The sleeves are gathered at the
cuffs.
There is a gathering on the
shoulder seams of the hem. A one-
button fastener in the centre.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
#18 / Veremiy Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Vinnytsia oblast, Tulchyn region, Tomashpilska AH, Hnatkiv village, Podillia ethnographic region
Fragment of a women's shirt - ‘ustavka’
Fragment of a women's shirt - ‘ustavka’
Number
KN-7988
Time
Early
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
31 х 26;
Description of the fragment
Cloth, silk; flooring, nightingale’s eyes, shtapivka, bar stitch
The intricate geometric ornament is made with counted satin stitch and looks very rich due to the combination of different colours and shades and various textures of threads.
The ornament is based on a diamond and an eight-pointed star. This ornament is universal for both men's and women's shirts.
The intricate geometric ornament is made with counted satin stitch and looks very rich due to the combination of different colours and shades and various textures of threads.
The ornament is based on a diamond and an eight-pointed star. This ornament is universal for both men's and women's shirts.
#19 / Kovel Shirt
Garment description:
The embroidery fragment was taken
from a shirt in the Volyn region,
Kovel.
Mid-20th century.
Loose fit men’s shirt.
It has long set-in sleeves with a
lowered shoulder.
The bottom of the sleeve has cuffs
with a 1-button fastener. Central
fastener on the front.
Classic stand-up collar.
Yoke on the back.
from a shirt in the Volyn region,
Kovel.
Mid-20th century.
Loose fit men’s shirt.
It has long set-in sleeves with a
lowered shoulder.
The bottom of the sleeve has cuffs
with a 1-button fastener. Central
fastener on the front.
Classic stand-up collar.
Yoke on the back.
#19 / Kovel Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Volyn region, Kovel, Polissia ethnographic region
Fragment of a men's shirt - dickey.
Fragment of a men's shirt - dickey.
Number
KN-7861
Time
Mid-
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
30 х 22;
Description of the fragment
Homespun linen, zapoloch; cross stitch, stem stitch
A stylised floral ornament with large elements and clear symmetry adds an expressive decorative effect.
The traditional red and black colour scheme is enriched with green, blue and yellow, which is typical for the embroidery of the northern part of the Volyn region.
A stylised floral ornament with large elements and clear symmetry adds an expressive decorative effect.
The traditional red and black colour scheme is enriched with green, blue and yellow, which is typical for the embroidery of the northern part of the Volyn region.
#20 / Odeska Shirt
Garment description:
Men's straight shirt with a stand-
up collar, yoke on the back.
Long sleeves with buttons on the
back.
Front slit with tassels.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
up collar, yoke on the back.
Long sleeves with buttons on the
back.
Front slit with tassels.
Fabric - linen
Threads - cotton
#20 / Odeska Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Odesa region, Podilskyi region, Kodymska AH, Podillia ethnographic region.
Women's shirt with hemming
Women's shirt with hemming
Number
KN-15932
Time
Early
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
112 х 138 х 142;
Description of the fragment
Homespun hemp cloth, bamboo, zapoloch; flooring, kuryachy brid, chain stitch, surface stitch, shtapivka, mouse tooth edging.
The Odesa region is characterised by a combination of geometric ornaments of different structures and techniques.
This was often further emphasised by contrasting colours.
The surface stitch embroidery technique gives the ornament elements a characteristic elongated shape. Restrained ornaments on such shirts could be complemented by multi-coloured crosses or beads.
The Odesa region is characterised by a combination of geometric ornaments of different structures and techniques.
This was often further emphasised by contrasting colours.
The surface stitch embroidery technique gives the ornament elements a characteristic elongated shape. Restrained ornaments on such shirts could be complemented by multi-coloured crosses or beads.
#21 / Zhytomyr Bila Shirt
Garment description:
Loose fit shirt.
Stand collar, front button
fastening to the very bottom.
Back with a yoke.
Sleeves with cuffs.
Satin stitch embroidery.
Thread- cotton.
Fabric - linen.
Stand collar, front button
fastening to the very bottom.
Back with a yoke.
Sleeves with cuffs.
Satin stitch embroidery.
Thread- cotton.
Fabric - linen.
#22 / Zhytomyr Chorna Shirt
Garment description:
Loose fit shirt.
Stand collar, front button
fastening to the very bottom.
Back with a yoke.
Sleeves with cuffs.
Satin stitch embroidery.
Thread- cotton.
Fabric - linen.
Stand collar, front button
fastening to the very bottom.
Back with a yoke.
Sleeves with cuffs.
Satin stitch embroidery.
Thread- cotton.
Fabric - linen.
#21 / #22 / Zhytomyr Shirts / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Zhytomyr region, Korosten district, Malynska AH, Chopovychi village, Polissia ethnographic region
Fragment of a women's shirt - hem
Fragment of a women's shirt - hem
Number
KN-7858
Time
Early
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
6 х 32;
Description of the fragment
Homespun linen, zapoloch; overcasting
These ornaments were used to decorate shirts, aprons and the oldest headcovering - ‘namitka’. The colour scheme of Polissia is based on red with contrasting stripes or a slight interspersion of other colours.
These ornaments were used to decorate shirts, aprons and the oldest headcovering - ‘namitka’. The colour scheme of Polissia is based on red with contrasting stripes or a slight interspersion of other colours.
Photo
Region
Zhytomyr region, Korosten district, Malynska AH, Chopovychi village, Polissia ethnographic region
A fragment of woven and embroidered fabric
A fragment of woven and embroidered fabric
Number
NDF-6573
Time
Late
19th c.
19th c.
Size, cm
31 х 15;
Description of the fragment
Homespun linen, zapoloch; darning
A geometric ornament, the main elements of which are diamond and diamond with rays, typical of Polissya. Older ornaments were made in the process of weaving or by embroidery techniques that imitate weaving - undercasting and darning.
A geometric ornament, the main elements of which are diamond and diamond with rays, typical of Polissya. Older ornaments were made in the process of weaving or by embroidery techniques that imitate weaving - undercasting and darning.
#23 / Ivan Shirt
Garment description:
Men’s Ivan Shirt.
Men's shirt of a straight silhouette,
with a stand-up collar and a front
slit that fastens with a button.
Cuffs with button fasteners.
Back with a yoke. Decorated with
embroidery, acrylic thread, satin
stitch technique.
Men's shirt of a straight silhouette,
with a stand-up collar and a front
slit that fastens with a button.
Cuffs with button fasteners.
Back with a yoke. Decorated with
embroidery, acrylic thread, satin
stitch technique.
#23 / Ivan Shirt / Information about the fragment
Photo
Region
Ivano-Frankivsk region,
Dolyna district,
Bolekhiv village.
Ethnographic region of
Pokuttya.
Women's shirt.
Dolyna district,
Bolekhiv village.
Ethnographic region of
Pokuttya.
Women's shirt.
Number
KN-12034
Time
Early
20th c.
20th c.
Size, cm
10 х 20;
Description of the fragment
Homespun cloth, wool, Mouliné; nyz with coloured filling, chain stitch.
A multi-level geometric ornament embroidered in black using ancient nyz or chain nyz techniques forms a black outline.
In Pokuttya and Hutsul regions, each centre has its own unique colour scheme, creating a rich diversity of these ethnographic regions.
A multi-level geometric ornament embroidered in black using ancient nyz or chain nyz techniques forms a black outline.
In Pokuttya and Hutsul regions, each centre has its own unique colour scheme, creating a rich diversity of these ethnographic regions.
